Tofino cafes – a writer’s hangout

During my recent 2-week house-sit in Tofino, I set myself the goal to visit every coffee shop in town. I thought this would be a snap, because after seven years away I remembered only five. But people kept telling me about new ones that had opened, standalone or attached to new hotels or campgrounds. Early on, I was adding to my list faster than I could knock them off.

In the end there were fifteen on my list, an impressive (arguably ridiculous) number for a small town. I had to plan carefully to get to them all, balancing my folding bike use (for the more distant ones) with the storm that blew through mid-visit (for the in-town, walkable ones).

It was an over-caffeinated quest that barely wrapped up on my last day there. I think I got to them all (no guarantees). I’m not rating them, as they are each a unique experience and worth at least one visit. Also, I’m a coffee Neanderthal — I’ll drink pretty much anything, and the cost of a coffee is more table space rental than for a gourmet taste experience.

What I did note was their suitability for sitting for an hour or two and writing/emailing/browsing on my laptop. Some are set up for that, some not.

The ones I would (and did) return to are in bold below — my seal of approval for a good place to hang and work. Presented here in the order I got to them:

1. Driftwood (Wickaninnish Inn) — high-end but casual, great location at the end of Chesterman Beach, outside tables in good weather. Moderately busy, solid wifi for a limited hang.

2. Drift Mfg. Co. (Fourth & Campbell) — charming, quirky little hole-in-the-wall with good coffee and an eccentric motorcycle vibe. The tiny bar is more suited for people-watching than laptop use. Wifi, didn’t ask.

3. Tofino Sea Kayaking (Main St. near First) — a standard, back when I lived in Tuff City, and still terrific. The outside covered porch has the best view in town, with a half-dozen seats inside for the cold, rainy days. Bonus of good pastries. Wifi is solid. My only caveat is it’s tremendously popular, so the ethical laptop schmoozer can’t take up space when it’s crowded.

4. Common Loaf (First St. & Neill) — another old standby. Snacks galore, also a solid lunch spot. Any writer has to have a session upstairs in the turret. Good wifi, and it too can get busy.

5. Tofitian — once a fave of mine, for the coffee and the high-end pastries. Still great, with good wifi and a computer bar. Busy, but mostly for take-out. It closes at 3 PM.

6. Maq Cafe (corner Main and First) — a surprise. When I left Tofino, the Maq had been known as the “Devil Bar,” and had recently been shuttered. Hugely renovated since, the cafe is a fantastic hang spot with lots of table space and a great harbour view. Popular with locals. (Barista liked my hat!) Loud-ish music. Coffee and food service stops at noon.

7. Rhino (Campbell St.) — an iconic Tuff City cafe. Its highly visible location, along with trademark food and donuts, makes it tremendously busy most of the day. Loud, bassy music, solid wifi. Good for a quick bite (sit-in or take-away), but not generally for a laptop work session.

8. Tofino Coffee Roasting (corner Pac Rim Hwy & Gibson St.) — renowned for its coffee among local aficionados. Mostly a tiny take-away shop, though in good weather there is some seating outside.

9. Mizu Mizu (Mackenzie Beach Resort) — another new one to me, built (I hear) in the resort’s former swimming pool. Coffee, pastries, lots of table seating, solid wifi. I wasn’t the only hanger-out on a laptop.

10. Ahous (Main St. in The Shore building) — mostly a marine tourism outfit, but with a nice coffee corner. Fun staff and good wifi, not busy when I was there. Closed over the winter season.

11. Moss & Milk (Tsawalk RV Park) — an unexpected secret, with tables and an artisan coffee and food bar. Didn’t check the wifi but probably good. Coffee service closed at 3, but the building stayed open late. Probably quite busy when the RV park is full.

12. Beach Shack (Pacific Sands Resort) — the resort’s outdoor food and coffee bar, popular with guests, beach-walkers and locals. Limited tables, usable in good weather. Wifi is there but tricky to find.

13. Hotel Zed (Pac Rim Hwy) — another surprise, with a good hangout pit in the hotel lobby. It’s busy but interesting, which is a plus for me, with people and their pets (the hotel allows animal guests) wandering through. Coffee shop closes at noon.

14. Savary Island Pie Co. (near First St. wharf) — coffee and a selection of savoury and sweet pies, plus a nice view of the harbour and busy dock. No wifi, but lots of table space for non-connected work.

15. LoveCraft (corner Campbell and Second) — interesting little shop stuffed with local art and crafts. Good coffee (owner is an aficionado). No wifi or sit-down table space.

The Quinsam’s climate cost

How we get here

As a new Gabriola resident, i’m noticing things about my new home — like the marked weather difference between here and Tofino, my previous digs.

Another striking first impression for the visitor or new arrival is the Quinsam, and its central place in island life, and how dealing with the ferry — the oddball departure times; the godsend Ferry Cam; the line-up, with its stringent etiquette and elaborate positioning strategies; the pastimes whiling away the long waits — are all part of island life and lore.

Pretty much everything and everyone on the island come across on that ferry — every coffee cup and bean, every bag of chips, every litre of propane, band-aid and e-bike, along with every customer in every shop. The Quinsam is absolutely intrinsic to island life and economy. Continue reading “The Quinsam’s climate cost”

Hello, Gabe

Well, the die is cast: my “temporary” summer stay at my sweetie’s place on Gabriola Island (a 20-minute ferry ride from Nanaimo) has become my permanent residence, as of a couple of weeks ago, when i made the decision not to return to Tofino in September.

My reasons are many, but here’s the main one: After a year and a half doing the long-distance relationship, with Leah driving up to Tuff or me bussing down to Gabe every couple of weeks, it was time to get together and stay together. The regular change of scenery was stimulating, i’ll admit, but the travel was wearing. I don’t know how couples can do it long-term. Continue reading “Hello, Gabe”

Innovation: a response

Why our little town seems stuck

8 min read

Apres Surf sign 2017-05-04

Tofino council (of which i am a member) received a heartfelt email a while ago, one i thought deserved a thoughtful response. It turned into more of an essay than i expected. First, here’s the email (abridged):

Dear Council,

I am writing to you today in hopes of receiving some answers to a few questions that have been keeping me awake at night. I am … unsettled by some of the changes happening within our beautiful, albeit endangered town. Continue reading “Innovation: a response”

Toxic travel

I just returned from a sudden family visit to St. Catharines. Pleasant enough couple of weeks, and i do enjoy southern Ontario’s summer heat (until the humidex tops 35 degrees). But as with previous visits, i noticed again that whenever i go, i almost instantly compromise almost all the principles i live by, back home in BC. Continue reading “Toxic travel”