Tofino cafes – a writer’s hangout

During my recent 2-week house-sit in Tofino, I set myself the goal to visit every coffee shop in town. I thought this would be a snap, because after seven years away I remembered only five. But people kept telling me about new ones that had opened, standalone or attached to new hotels or campgrounds. Early on, I was adding to my list faster than I could knock them off.

In the end there were fifteen on my list, an impressive (arguably ridiculous) number for a small town. I had to plan carefully to get to them all, balancing my folding bike use (for the more distant ones) with the storm that blew through mid-visit (for the in-town, walkable ones).

It was an over-caffeinated quest that barely wrapped up on my last day there. I think I got to them all (no guarantees). I’m not rating them, as they are each a unique experience and worth at least one visit. Also, I’m a coffee Neanderthal — I’ll drink pretty much anything, and the cost of a coffee is more table space rental than for a gourmet taste experience.

What I did note was their suitability for sitting for an hour or two and writing/emailing/browsing on my laptop. Some are set up for that, some not.

The ones I would (and did) return to are in bold below — my seal of approval for a good place to hang and work. Presented here in the order I got to them:

1. Driftwood (Wickaninnish Inn) — high-end but casual, great location at the end of Chesterman Beach, outside tables in good weather. Moderately busy, solid wifi for a limited hang.

2. Drift Mfg. Co. (Fourth & Campbell) — charming, quirky little hole-in-the-wall with good coffee and an eccentric motorcycle vibe. The tiny bar is more suited for people-watching than laptop use. Wifi, didn’t ask.

3. Tofino Sea Kayaking (Main St. near First) — a standard, back when I lived in Tuff City, and still terrific. The outside covered porch has the best view in town, with a half-dozen seats inside for the cold, rainy days. Bonus of good pastries. Wifi is solid. My only caveat is it’s tremendously popular, so the ethical laptop schmoozer can’t take up space when it’s crowded.

4. Common Loaf (First St. & Neill) — another old standby. Snacks galore, also a solid lunch spot. Any writer has to have a session upstairs in the turret. Good wifi, and it too can get busy.

5. Tofitian — once a fave of mine, for the coffee and the high-end pastries. Still great, with good wifi and a computer bar. Busy, but mostly for take-out. It closes at 3 PM.

6. Maq Cafe (corner Main and First) — a surprise. When I left Tofino, the Maq had been known as the “Devil Bar,” and had recently been shuttered. Hugely renovated since, the cafe is a fantastic hang spot with lots of table space and a great harbour view. Popular with locals. (Barista liked my hat!) Loud-ish music. Coffee and food service stops at noon.

7. Rhino (Campbell St.) — an iconic Tuff City cafe. Its highly visible location, along with trademark food and donuts, makes it tremendously busy most of the day. Loud, bassy music, solid wifi. Good for a quick bite (sit-in or take-away), but not generally for a laptop work session.

8. Tofino Coffee Roasting (corner Pac Rim Hwy & Gibson St.) — renowned for its coffee among local aficionados. Mostly a tiny take-away shop, though in good weather there is some seating outside.

9. Mizu Mizu (Mackenzie Beach Resort) — another new one to me, built (I hear) in the resort’s former swimming pool. Coffee, pastries, lots of table seating, solid wifi. I wasn’t the only hanger-out on a laptop.

10. Ahous (Main St. in The Shore building) — mostly a marine tourism outfit, but with a nice coffee corner. Fun staff and good wifi, not busy when I was there. Closed over the winter season.

11. Moss & Milk (Tsawalk RV Park) — an unexpected secret, with tables and an artisan coffee and food bar. Didn’t check the wifi but probably good. Coffee service closed at 3, but the building stayed open late. Probably quite busy when the RV park is full.

12. Beach Shack (Pacific Sands Resort) — the resort’s outdoor food and coffee bar, popular with guests, beach-walkers and locals. Limited tables, usable in good weather. Wifi is there but tricky to find.

13. Hotel Zed (Pac Rim Hwy) — another surprise, with a good hangout pit in the hotel lobby. It’s busy but interesting, which is a plus for me, with people and their pets (the hotel allows animal guests) wandering through. Coffee shop closes at noon.

14. Savary Island Pie Co. (near First St. wharf) — coffee and a selection of savoury and sweet pies, plus a nice view of the harbour and busy dock. No wifi, but lots of table space for non-connected work.

15. LoveCraft (corner Campbell and Second) — interesting little shop stuffed with local art and crafts. Good coffee (owner is an aficionado). No wifi or sit-down table space.

Climate adventure

I’ve been taking a nine-week … course? workshop? gathering? … called Living into the Earth Emergency. You can get an idea of what it’s about from the website, but basically about 20 people get together weekly to explore the planetary polycrisis, in a structured format.

For week #5 (Change and Change-Points), our homework was to think about “how change happens.” I’ve got some “external” ideas that I’ll lay out in another post, but it occurred to me that change also happens internally. So here’s my little report on that.

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Portland getaway

(and the climate section of Powell’s Books)

People who know me know me as a bit of a climate fiend — online, but IRL as well. I’m a big fan, and sufferer, of flygskam (Swedish: “flight shame“), and haven’t been on an airplane since maybe 2018, for a Montreal wedding. (I returned to the West Coast by train, a far superior trip.)

Still, I must admit to a touch of envy at friends who are still, still, jetting off to exotic locales in the name of curiosity and distraction, all apparently guilt-free and oblivious to the obscene amount of carbon their little hobby spews into a suffering atmosphere. (The aforementioned Vancouver-Montreal flight cost the world 0.48 tonnes of carbon, per this carbon calculator. For reference, a sustainable annual carbon budget is estimated at under 2 tonnes per person, per year.)

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Silence not over, but ebbing

It has been over two years since I’ve uploaded an actual blog post, or in truth put much of anything out into the world, apart from a few modest poems. Many factors come into it, not least the all-eclipsing pandemic slump. But my retreat from public commentary actually predated COVID, and came from the increasingly pervasive feeling that there is way, way, way too much opining, asserting, spilling, shouting, yapping, accusing, and just plain talking going on in the world — too much for me to feel comfortable adding to the noise, the confusion, the fast eroding sense of meaning. I figured the most useful contribution I could make to the cacophony was silence: not adding a peep, not even my own (I like to think) sensible thoughts and observations.

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